The Germans made extensive use of the baby Hanomag Sd.Kfz. 250 halftrack in WW2, so I felt my force of Germans was lacking without one. In the late war Chain of Command support lists you can get a 5-man recce team in a halftrack on list 3, which seems like a bargain to me. Recce troops can be very useful in CoC, as scouting out the enemy and forcing them to revel their forces is vital to success.

The Warlord kit

I’d not bought any vehicles from Warlord before and to be honest I was expecting a little better. Their infantry is pretty good, but I found this kit didn’t come out of the box in great shape. The metal crewman and accessories like MGs were very flashy and casting quality of the resin vehicle was a bit ropy.

Big chunks of resin had to be cut and ground out, lines that should be straight are slightly crooked and some of the detail was missing.

Once the kit was tidied up and assembled I undercoated in Halfords plastic primer and basecoated in Army Painter Dunkelgelb spray (which is a special colour they have produced for Warlord Games). At this point some extra stowage I had ordered showed up in the post, so I stuck some jerry cans and personal gear on it.

I don’t have an airbrush, the camo pattern was painted on by hand (Vallejo Luftwaffe Green 70.823 and Dark Rust 302). I’d not done this before and used a stippling motion to try to feather the edges. I wasn’t happy with the result initially, but after washing down the vehicle heavily I think it’s turned out ok. The transfers are Warlord Games.

Then the whole thing got a wash down with Army Painter Strong Tone ink. I really like this ink, it’s easier to apply with a brush than their gloopy Quickshade, and dries much faster (about an hour compared to 48 hours). The Quickshade does a good job of shading figures, but for a vehicle or machine the ability to control it with a brush is better IMO, and you don’t have to worry about thick Quickshade pooling in lower parts of the model. Smells less, too.

To pick out detail I went back and marked panel lines and rivets with an old GW black ink I had lying around (Nuln Oil), then drybrushed in Vallejo Middlestone.

And the final result: